Donna Karan, knitwear designer #2

"For me, designing is an expression of who I am as a woman, with all the
complications, feelings and emotions." – Donna Karan

Donna Karan started her namesake label in 1984, centered around the idea of a seven piece wardrobe; seven interchangeable, easy pieces that transition from morning to night, work day to weekend, and from Spring to Fall. Not much has changed…except for the 100-plus stores and oodles of looks walking down the runway twice a year and the goal of world domination becoming more attainable. Scratch that last part.

Karan doesn’t design just dresses, or just evening wear; when designing, Karan thinks about the entire look, from head to toe. Because of this entire goal aesthetic,the Donna Karan empire has grown to include hosiery, intimates, eyewear, fragrance,and accessories. However, Karan is quick to point out that her look is not a look; it is a lifestyle. "That’s why New York is on the label. It sets the pace.” This New York kind of life is available at both price points [designer (Donna Karan) and mass market (DKNY,created in 1989)], and for men, juniors, and kids (DKNY Men, DKNY Juniors, DKNYKids, respectably). And, if that wasn’t enough, Karan introduced Donna KaranHome in 2001. You can practically BE Donna Karan if you want to.

Here are some vintage lovelies I found from the Anne Klein days:

{1982} {1984}

This is when Donna Karan was not designing for her own aesthetic but rather for the AK customer, which happened to be a much more... mature look. These clothes don't exactly scream the NY lifestyle, no? The designs were very much for the mass market, being inside the fashion box of what every woman would wear in the 80s: silky neck-tie blouses and polyester pleated pants. Add Dynasty hair and makeup and voila! On the right, the 80s are definitely coming into their own, with asexual Annie Hall vibes going on. Probably still staying with the cottons and polys, but throwing on a wool coat for the colder months. As far as I can tell, not a jersey in sight. Thank God this era is dead.

These are from the late 80s, when Donna Karan was out of the AK umbrella an in her own jersey heaven. These silhouettes are classic DK: draped jersey, low necklines, body-con. The DK woman likes showing off her curves, plain and simple. That is evident here, and still is today.

Fast forward to September 12, 2011 at New York Fashion Week: still slinky, still drapey, and still VERY Donna Karan.

My opinion of Ms. Karan is that she designs for the woman’s body, hands down, no
arguing. She found her niche and sticks to it. Unfortunately, I don't find myself in that niche most days. Some of her designs are far more sensual in a seductress sort of way,
yet are grounded in the use of jersey knits to facilitate ease of movement
(running around in NYC is probably the reasoning behind EVERYTHING). While her
pieces may seem like they require much effort – who wears Grecian draping on a
daily basis?? – they are about as easy to wear as a pair of sweats, and a
million times more chic. Now, if I can only get her to use some neon, we might
be in business. Oh, and lower the hemlines a tad. And, loosen the fits so as to make a general bag-like contraption. THEN we’d be golden.

Color Inspiration, a la Coury Combs [fancytreehouse]

One of the few people I follow on lookbook.nu is Coury Combs. I found her store on eBay and followed her to lookbook. She epitomizes grace and quirk wrapped in a platinum package. This outfit in particular showcases her love for fun colors and shapes. This outfit is FAB-U-LOUS! Seriously, I think I am going to try to steal it from her. Let the stalking begin…

Here are the fabrics I have chosen that relate (even if only slightly) to the outfit color story or the overall feel of the outfit. All 100% knits!

Light Blue, Blue, Yellow & Red Skull & Cross Bone Print on White Jersey Knit Fabric
Suitable for Blouses
100% Cotton
59" Wide
Fashion Fabrics

Solid Fuchsia Jersey Knit T-Shirt Weight Fabric
Suitable for Blouses
80% Cotton
20% Polyester
61" Wide
Machine Washable
Fashion Fabrics

Dark Olive Green, Olive Green, Tan & Black Animal Print "ITY" Stretch Jersey Knit Fabric
Suitable for
Blouses & Dresses
97% Polyester
3% Lycra
58" Wide
Machine Washable
Fashion Fabrics

Solid Aqua Crochet Knit Fabric
Suitable for Blouses, Dresses & Overlays
100% Polyester
54" wide
Machine Washable
Fashion Fabrics

Solid Light Mint Green Gauze Knit Fabric
4 Way Stretch
Suitable for Blouses and Dresses
93% Polyester
7% Lycra
54" Wide
Machine Washable
Fashion Fabrics

Red, Dark Purple, Bright Pink & Aqua Hearts & Polka Dot Print on Purple Jersey Knit Fabric
Suitable for Blouses
100% Cotton
58" Wide
Fashion Fabrics

This is a silk charmeuse with a slight horizontal stretch. Very fine quality, medium weight.
Lycra 5%/Silk 95%
45" Wide
Mood Fabrics

Knitwear designer: Stella McCartney, Resort '12

For class, I am supposed to pick a designer known for knitwear and write a little ditty about them. My fail safe is always dear ol' Betsey, but I thought I would switch it up. After reading an article about her family in April's issue of Harper's (old, I know), I thought I would delve into the queen of chic athletic wear. Here is a biography I pulled from her page, http://www.stellamccartney.com/:

"Born and raised in London and the English countryside, Stella McCartney graduated from Central St Martins in 1995. A signature style of sharp tailoring, natural confidence and sexy femininity was immediately apparent in her first collection and after only two collections, in 1997, she was appointed the Creative Director of Chloe in Paris and enjoyed great success during her tenure.
In 2001, Stella McCartney launched her own fashion house under her name in a joint venture with Gucci Group (now the PPR Luxury Group) and showed her first collection in Paris in October 2001. A lifelong vegetarian, Stella McCartney does not use any leather or fur in her designs. Her collections include women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, lingerie, eyewear, fragrance and organic skincare. Her first perfume, “Stella”, launched successfully in September 2003.
Stella McCartney now operates 15 freestanding stores in locations including Manhattan’s Meatpacking District, London’s Mayfair, LA’s West Hollywood, Paris’ Palais Royal and Milan, and recently opened doors in Beirut, Las Vegas and Rome. Her collections are now distributed in over 50 countries through 600 wholesale accounts including specialty shops and department stores.
In addition to the main line collection, a long-term partnership with adidas was introduced in September 2004. The critically acclaimed sports performance collection “adidas by Stella McCartney,” has since successfully grown to include several athletic disciplines including running, gym, yoga, tennis, swimming, golf, winter sports and triathlon. In September 2010, Stella McCartney was appointed Team GB’s Creative Director for the 2012 Olympics by adidas – the first time in the history of the games that a leading fashion designer has designed the apparel for a country’s team across all competitions for both the Olympic and the Paralympic Games.
In 2003, Stella McCartney launched her first perfume “Stella.” In November 2005, the hugely successful one-off collection “Stella McCartney for H&M” sold out worldwide in record time. In 2008, a new lingerie line was launched. In November 2010 Stella McCartney Kids was launched, a collection catering for newborns and children up to the age of 12. In September 2011 Stella McCartney’s costume designs for the New York City Ballet’s Ocean’s Kingdom will premier in New York.
The following awards have recognized Stella McCartney’s achievement in fashion and social awareness: VH1/Vogue Fashion and Music 2000 Designer of the Year Award (2000, NY), the Woman of Courage Award for work against cancer at the prestigious Unforgettable Evening event (2003, LA), the Glamour Award for Best Designer of the Year (2004, London), the Star Honoree at the Fashion Group International Night of the Stars (2004, NY), the Organic Style Woman of the Year Award (2005, NY), the Elle Style Award for Best Designer of the Year Award (2007, London), Best Designer of The Year at the British Style Awards (2007, London), Best Designer of The Year at the Spanish Elle Awards (2008, Barcelona), the Green Designer of the Year at the ACE Awards (2008, NY) and in 2009 she was honoured by the NRDC, featured in the Time 100 and recognized as a Glamour magazine Woman of the Year."

*_____________________***________________________*

The latest collection from the daughter of the Beatles frontman is Resort 2012. This is a collection of smart separates, a laundry list of what fashionable women need in their closet: cuffed cigarette pants, tailored menswear suit jackets, and suiting blouses, mixed with tuxedo shift dresses and spots of bright cobalt, keeping the feeling light and youthful, yet pulled together with nonchalance. This is how one transitions from teens to adulthood: keep pops of blue and cheery yellow, but mix in smart contrasting black, white, and camel in adult shapes. For me, this is the perfect collection to pull from as I attempt to "grow-up" my look. I will trade in my band tees for blazers and cut-offs for trousers. There isn't a need to worry about forsaking my love of color in my journey into adulthood: keeping the shapes simple allows the color to read as mature, even when adorned with bows from head to toe.

Stella McCartney definitely designs for the young woman, yet her separates can be worn by women of all ages. Her houndstooth pencil skirts can be dressed up or down, worn with a sophisticated black button-up, or punked up with a drapey tank and ankle booties. Even the color shy can utilize pieces in this collection, from the camel cigarette pants to the black and white sleeveless tops. For someone like me, I would take the sheer blue bow top and wear it with a lime green tank underneath (after all, real world eyes shouldn't be privy to nipplage), trouser shorts and tights. In fact, I can see myself wearing most of this collection... that is, if I won the lottery. Oh how I wish that would happen tomorrow.

Color story: Black, white, cobalt, orange, camel, navy, yellow
Repetitions: stark contrasts of black and white, houndstooth, menswear-inspired, smart separates, clean lines
Trims: satin lapels, silk flower pins.

Give me houndstooth, or give me death.